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Hsimenting---Taipei's Left Bank

Lots of colorful clothing and party accessories are available in shops around Hsimenting.

Hsimenting (西門町) is fast, entertaining, consumer/lifestyle-oriented and vaguely alternative. Behind this trendy exterior, the love hotels, piano bars, hong-bao chang (song and dance clubs) that provided entertainment to a previous generation remain. Then there are KTVs, MTVs, bars and snooker halls that provide a raffish, bohemian edge. It is Taipei's equivalent of Carnaby Street or Soho in London, the Left Bank in Paris or Tokyo's Shinjiku.

1. Louis Military Surplus (路易士軍品)

Louis didn't like military service but has always loved military gear. So, he started a shop that caters to both the connoisseur and tourist. Of particular interest is the Russian cosmonaut's helmet for NT$15,000, the Quan Luc Vietcong Hoa skull and crossbones flag and inscribed US Vietnam-era zippo lighters. 8 Neijiang St. (內江街8號), tel: (02) 2370-1691.

2. Red House Cinema Museum

(紅樓電影博物館)

Built in 1908 and is now a third-level heritage site, the Old Red Cinema is currently being renovated and will open next year to the public. 10 Chengtu Rd. (成都路10號), tel: (02) 2382-2680.

Take a breather in the courtyard of the Tienhou Temple.

3. Fong Da Coffee. (蜂大咖啡)

This is an old-style coffee shop, full of conversation, cigarette smoke and the smell of history. First established in 1956, it looks and feels part of that era. Fong Da is a friendly and enjoyable place to sit and talk, with similar prices as Starbucks, but a better ambience. No. 42, Chengtu Rd., tel: (02) 2371-9577.

The interior of the Red House Cinema Museum is still under renovation.

4. Shin Tung Yang (新東陽)

One of a chain of stores famous for beef jerky. It also offers a range of deli goods and imported foods. 74 Hsining Rd. (西寧南路74號), tel: (02) 2312-1725.

5. Taipei Tienhou Temple. (台北天后宮)

Right in the middle of the tumult of Hsimenting, the Tienhou Temple's courtyard offers some respite for the weary shopper. There is a small fountain, plants and a few seats. All around are traditional carvings, lanterns, statues, people wrapped up in their prayers and incense smoke. It's a scene that has probably changed little in the last 100 years. The temple was relocated to its present site in 1943 to make way for a road, which forced it to expand upward giving it a slightly chaotic appearance. 51 Chengtu Rd. (成都路51號), tel (02) 2331-0421.

Carlos and his Great Danes are a regular feature of Hsimenting's street life.

6. Royal Castle Hotel (成都大飯店)

Rates range from about NT$1,500 for a night to NT$500 for a couple of hours of "rest." This place is clean and safe, strategically situated and approved by the Hotel Association of the ROC. 115 Chengtu Road (成都路115號), tel: (02) 2383-1123.

Buy a cheap friend at the Wan-nian Pet Shop.

7. Crazy Horse (瘋馬)

A comprehensive entertainment center which includes food and beverage, pool and an MTV, all operating around the clock. At the MTV you can enjoy in comfort all the movies you missed at the theater, plus drinks, snacks and no need to clean up afterward. Some MTVs have a reputation as hotbeds of sin, fronts for prostitution and under-age drinking. According to Akira, who works for Crazy Horse, this is not that kind of place, but "you can do what you like until the movie is over." The pool hall is great for before or after your movie. It has 60 tables, ranging from matchplay to standard (the Olhausen costs NT$2.9 a minute, the Olio NT$1). The snooker hall is nicely lit and well maintained. Service is efficient and friendly and there is a menu of drinks and meals. Busy times are on a weekend afternoon, but you can usually get a table straightaway. B1, 36 Hsining S. Rd. (西寧南路36號B1), tel: (02) 2314-2099 or 7F and 8F, 70 Hsining S. Rd. (西寧南路70號8F), tel: (02) 2331-4277. Open 24 hours.

8. Wan-nian Pet Shop (萬年寵物店)

A Hsimenting institution, this "store" has operated from its makeshift premises for 20 years. Small, but crammed with animals, the boss is usually to be found on a paved area opposite the store reclined in a deck chair. He keeps a wary eye on the dwarf rabbits that occasionally make half-hearted attempts to escape and occasionally scowls if people touch the animals without permission. There are rodents, chinchillas and fish, but the main attractions are the stick insects, geckos and chameleons. 70 Hsining S. Rd. (西寧南路70號), tel: (02) 2389-8283.

9. Carlos and his three Great Danes

Four figures that can often be seen around Taipei central that have their home in Hsimenting are big Carlos and his three Great Danes: Black Horse, Judy and Lion. They are all good-natured individuals, seemingly content to attract attention wherever they wander, politely rummaging through garbage bags and picking up aluminum cans. Carlos says Lion gets a bit confused sometimes and "can't remember his name" on account of his age. Judy eats fish when she shouldn't and gets a rash, but otherwise they are in good health. If you have the time, Carlos will tell you (in English, Chinese or Spanish) his story, about studying in Spain, life as a lieutenant colonel in the army for 25 years, being cheated of his pension, the roving life in general and observations from the streets.

10. Green Curry (綠色咖哩)

See Restaurant review inside.

11. The Doors

See Restaurant review inside.

12. No. 23

One of the cooler clothes shops around, not only because it sells Bathing Ape, but also because it has a good range of reasonably priced T-shirts, jeans, hats and skateboard wear. Understated but self-assured, No. 23 is a pleasant place to browse. 6, Ln. 26, Kunming St. (昆明街26巷6號), tel: (02) 2370-2532.

13. Flea Market (美國二手貨市場)

One of Hsimenting's original thrift shops, this Flea Market has a great selection of Americana, hippy chic and grunge items. Plenty of "original" Levis (501s, Red Label), patterned shirts, Hawaiian Aloha shirts, long "antique" dresses, shoes and lots of brand names, even Coca-Cola "Zippos." It's not cheap, but provides both retail and wholesale. 8, Ln 96, Kunming St. (昆明街96巷8號), tel: (02) 2388-0198.

14. Hardware Street

One of the main supply centers for Taipei's legions of roadside food stalls. This small area at the back of Hsimenting in the shadow of a highway overpass is 10 minutes and a lifetime away from the designer shops of Hsimenting Central.

15. Hands Tailung (台隆手創館)

Here you can find all the things you never thought you would never need, along with some of the things you never realized were needed. Hands seems to specialize in providing items which you cannot find in most shopping areas, but would likely see in mail order catalogues. Things like the Rolodesk Name Card Revolving Organizers, or anything branded with Hello Kitty or Coca-Cola. There are four floors to marvel at. 88 Chunghua Rd. Sec. 1 (中華路1段88號), tel: 0800-11098 or http://www.hands.com.tw

16. Wa Cow

Wa Cow -- a play on words from a foul-toned Taiwanese exclamation -- is decorated throughout in black and white Friesian Cow patches. Even the straws and some of the drinks are black and white. The service is prompt and helpful. It has a good view of Omei St. (峨嵋街) and is good for people-watching. 2F-3F, 53 Hanchung St. (漢中街53號2-3樓), tel: (02) 2370-8997.

17. Ya Rou Bian Goose Restaurant

(鴨肉扁土鵝專賣店)

See restaurant review inside.

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