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Belgian Christmas brought to Taipei

By Ernesto Brawand
SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
Friday, Dec 08, 2000, Page 10

Clockwise from the top: chocolate praline finale; creme brulee of duck liver with apples; grilled pork chop with mushroom ragout, gratin potatoes and vegetables; mille feuille of lobster and sole with tomato mousseline, spinach and rice; chocolate snowman. PHOTO: GRAND FORMOSA REGENT

During the holiday season, hoteliers become even more innovative to attract their clientele, especially on Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve.

This year if you are hungry for French food but also want that special German rigor with a touch of Dutch influence, go for the Belgian Christmas Festival at the Grand Formosa Regent. The event lasts until Dec. 31 and is orchestrated by visiting executive chef Philippe Meeus, owner of the Alta Ripa Restaurant in Avelgem Outrijve, a town located 80km north of Brussels. There is a menu to choose from in the Court (a la carte), Belgian dishes on the buffet in the Brasserie while set menus are served in the Steak House and Teppanyaki.

A bit about Belgian food

Belgium, and its food in particular, are among Europe's best-kept secrets. Because of its geographical location, their Dutch, German and French neighbors have inspired many of the country's local dishes.

Chef Philippe Meeus is humble about his country's food. "In the past most of our cuisine was made out of dishes for poor people. Things got better after the Second World War; we replaced some of the basic items with a bit more costly and nutritious ingredients. Belgian people like to eat out but tend not to overspend every time, so we have to be creative in the way we do our menus.

"Alta Ripa was founded by my parents 38 years ago. Initially I was helping out in the kitchen and not so keen on becoming a chef. Than I went to hotel school in Brussels. A few years later I realized that a chef not only cooks but creates dishes as well," says Meeus.

Before joining the family business Meuss trained further at Michelin star restaurants, such as Sir Anthony Van Dijk, the Villa Loraine and the Maison du Boeuf.

Alta Ripa specializes in banquets and weddings. "On weekdays we work with a limited crew but on weekends well-trained and efficient part-timers contribute to the good name of the house. Belgian cuisine has evolved on its own, but was also influenced by immigrants, especially Italians. They came as workers and settled down. Belgian people, conservative by nature, are not opposed to novelty as long as it is within their taste and budget," says Chef Meuss.

Worth trying

Chef Meeus's style is a combination of classicism, exoticism and elegant presentation. His lobster and asparagus cocktail with tomato dressing was light and fresh. We later had the consomme of mussels and shellfish in a saffron broth which was exquisite. Saffron, a rare spice, enhances perfectly any seafood dish without being overpowering.

The main course was very classic -- marinated grilled beef sirloin with braised Belgian endives, fried onions in a red wine reduction.

In Taiwan endives are mostly served as a salad but they can also be served as vegetables though having a slightly sour taste.

For dessert the creme brulee (burned cream) with apples was reminiscent of grandma's home cooking. With the coffee comes the obligatory Belgian chocolates.

Other attractive main courses are rabbit with prunes, veal tenderloin and sweetbread in a morel sauce or mille feuille of lobster and sole with tomato mousseline, spinach and rice.

400 kinds of beer

One cannot speak of Belgium or its food without mentioning the beer. As elsewhere there are large breweries and countless small operations, some located in monasteries. These breweries produce a wide variety of heavier, full-bodied beers and unfiltered beers which have gained recognition in world competitions. There are also excellent wheat beers and unique fruit-flavored beers.

Beer lovers in Taiwan are especially lucky because a dedicated Belgian entrepreneur, Geert Anthonis distributes a large variety of his country's best beers to locations nationwide on a weekly basis. "I have to do it on my own," says Geert, "because I want to keep in close touch with my clients."

For the Belgian festival at the Regent you may try: Duvel (devil), a strong, rich and full-bodied beer with a strong alcohol content (7 percent); Delirium Tremens, which was nominated best beer in the world in 1997. The bottle is often kept as a decorative item; Dentergems Wit, a slightly sweet wheat beer; and Liefmans, a rather unique raspberry-flavored beer.

Entertainment

From Dec. 22 to Dec. 31, diners at the Grand Formosa Regent will also be treated to a musical journey by Diavolo, a chamber orchestra from Brussels. Their repertoire is broad, ranging from oldies to Broadway tunes, from Charleston to Tango and a few Gypsy tunes. Don't miss their special appearance during the Christmas Eve dinner and Christmas Day lunch as well as for the traditional countdown on Dec. 31.
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